International dive sites
Here, I’ve listed dive sites I visited during my trips. Their common denominator is the absence of mass tourism. I’d return to every single one of them, if funds and time would allow.
2009
- Silfra, Iceland (N64° 15.319’ W 21° 07.008’). Silfra Cathedral lies in a gap caused by continental drift. Here, the american and eurasian plates drift apart, leaving a ravine filled with crystal clear water. Melting water from the surrounding glaciers gets filtered along its way, filling the crack with clear fresh water. Silfra, meaning Silver Woman, is a good choice of a name for this magnificent site. A light current towards the open lake keeps the water clear. Visibilities up to 100m are easily reached! The water temperature of 2 to 4°C helps to keep the water clear too. Huge rocks, partly covered with hair like, long light green algae, create a perfect stage for an unforgettable dive. Left shoulder Europe, right shoulder America. Drifting slowly between the continents. Silfra Lagoon, a shallow basin connecting to the southern end of the crack also surprises with end to end visibility. The operator dive.is offers trips to Silfra.
2008
- Wakatobi, Indonesia (S05° 46’ E 123° 53’). Pristine, well grown drop-offs, reefs full of life. A place you will remember. There are more than 45 dive sites within a few minutes boat ride. Everything is optimized for underwater photography. Wheather you’re a WA or macro type, you’ll find plenty of possibillities for great shots. This all is topped with 5* restaurant service. Small groups (6 guests per guide), the closest resort a mere 500km away. A dream at the end of the world.
- Alam Anda, Bali, Indonesia (S08° 08.911’ E115° 24.705’). A well organized small resort. Good diving and a great spa. Guided trips across northern Bali are performed on request. In addition to a vital house reef boat trips to a couple of dive sites are available. In addition, bus based dive trips to sites all over Bali are available.
2007
- Galapagos Islands, Ecuador. Sharks, rays, turtles, sealions. Great dives and equally great land trips. Simply unforgettable.
2006
- Gozo, Malta. Rocks, caves, a few wrecks. Mediterranean at its best.
2005
- Coron Bay, North Palawan, Philippines. Sangat Island lies in Coron Bay, surrounded by 24 wrecks. 10 of them are known and divable. The US Navy sunk them in WW II within a single attack. The sheltered bay suffers of bad visibility (especially after rain). There's nearly nothing but wrecks but plenty of them. You may find crocodile fish or cuttlefish in a few shallow wrecks. Most of the reefs have been destroyed by dynamite and cynaide fishing.
Baracuda Lake (N11° 57.427’ E120° 12.986’) on Coron Island is fed by hot volcanic springs. You enter via a shallow gorge. Razor sharp rocks lead the way to this magnificent spot. The deeper you go, the warmer it gets.
Cathedral (N11° 49.370’ E120° 15.999’) is another wreck-less dive site, located at the south tip of Coron Island. A hidden entrance leads to a cave. Light entering through a hole in the ceiling causes a mystic feeling. Most of the time, there is current outside, causing visibility up to 40m.
2004
- Lembeh Straight, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Lembeh Strait is a place where you still may find rare and undescribed species. Lembeh lies at the heart of the area called Walacea. A hot spot of biodiversity. Divers Lodge Lembeh is the smallest operator but has big advantages. There's a limit of two guests per guide. It's all optimized for photography. You name it, they show it. Diving in this area means muck diving. Browsing through the debris you'll meet critter you never thought of existing. An absolute macro paradise.
- Bunaken National Park, North Sulawesi, Indonesia. Amongst others, Thalassa Dive Center (located at the Santika Hotel near Manado) offers boat trips to Bunaken. Well overgrown drop-offs are the result of strict environmental protection. Six turtles during a single dive! Bahowo Lodge is a nice and sheltered place to stay. About 300 inhabtants, a small hotel with only 4 rooms.
2003
- Cyprus, diving around Paphos. Nearly no fish, but great visibility. You see there's no fish. There's a plenty of wrecks, most of them in shallow water. Enough light and time for grat pictures. Limestone with holes like Swiss cheese, crevices and small canyons. Cydive in Paphos offers good service for reasonable money. The wreck of the Achilleas (N34° 46.416’ E32° 26.245’) and Vera K (N34° 43.281’ E32° 25.697’) are located in shallow water outside of Paphos harbour. Ideally for beginners and photographers alike. The Zenobia sank near Lárnaka (16 to 38m; N34° 53.823’ E33° 39.449’) in 1982. It's a must for wreck divers. One of the most spectacular wrecks in the Mediterranean.
- Huasteca Mountains, Mexiko: During a trip organized by Coordinación Subacuatica in Cuernavaca, we were able to dive a few exclusive sites. Together with two guides we visited dive sites in Manatial de la Media Luna (N21° 51.658’, W100° 1.687’) at Rio Verde. A bit further to the east, Puente de Dios (N21° 55.925’, W99° 24.927’). Both located in the region San Luis Potosi, Mexiko. Manatial de la Media Luna consists of five volcanic springs. Although at an altitude of 1000m, water temperature is about 30°C. Unforgettable dives in the springs and a couple of tunnels. Puente de Dios (a "cold water dive" at 26°C) is located at the bottom of a narrow path, approximately 100m deep in a crevice. There's no dive operator in the vicinity, so you have to carry all your equipment. The dive follows the river upstream, through a small tunnel. A waterfall beats like a huge bass drum, syncing your hear beat. A most relaxing experience.
- Tuxpan, Ver. Mexiko. There's only one operator, Aqua Sports (Carretera Tuxpan La Barra km. 8.5, phone: 70259, no email in 2003). They offer day trips to the reefs (e.g. Inner reef, N21° 1.470’, W97° 11.781’). If you're lucky, you may fing huge rays hiding in the sand.
- Veracruz, Ver., Mexiko. There are 4 operators in Veracruz. I registered at Dorado Divers. Nice staff, it helps if you speak and understand basics in Spanish. During day trips with two dives each, you may explore the reefs outside Veracruz and Anton Lizardo. Best time for diving is between May and September. Water temperature ranges from 23° to 26°C.
2002
- Sudan: Two weeks liveaboard with the Aurora (she sank at Wingate Reef a couple of years ago) off Port Sudan. The Red Sea in the Sudan is like teh Red Sea in Egypt about 40 years ago. It's, where diving history was written. Sites like the Umbria, Wingate Reef, Sanganeb Reef, Sha’ab Rumi, Precontinent II, the Blue Belt (Toyota wreck), Sha’ab Suedi, Gurna Reef, Merlo Reef, Angarosh.
Diving in the Sudan is definitively not for beginners. At lesat it wasn't, at that time. No guide, no maps. Minimal briefing on the line of "the sea is deep, the water is wet, be back in an hour in s’allah!". There are mostly drop-offs with a step at 30 to 40m, dropping down to about 600m. Nearly no dive as shallow as 40m. IN teh meantime, more operators run boats in the Sudan.
Beste time for travelling is March to April. I was there in November. At a water temperature of 34°C (inversion layer, 28°C at 50m) and poor visibility.
- Coral Point Dive Resort, Panglao, Philippines. A small resort (9 double rooms only), hosted by Ferry Knall, scuba diving since the early fifties. The west coast of Panglao is quiet. No discotheque, no bar, just a few footsteps from the room to the sea. A true macro paradise where I could take pictures of about 30 different nudibranches within two weeks of diving.
2001
- Turkey: The coastline around Fethye is ragged and has lots of little bays. European Diving Center Turkey offers one week liveaboards. A great place for beginners, caring staff, nice and easy sites. You'll see more fish than e.g. in Croatia. Great landscape, above and beneath the waterline.
- Kroatia: Neptun Sub in Vodice is located close to the Kornati National Park. Boat trips lead to good dive sites around Vodice. Gorgonia fans, drop offs, congers, crabs, octopus, to name a few, Mediterranean alive. The wreck of the Francesca da Rimini (experienced divers only) lies between 39 and 55m. The hull is filled with grenades. The ship is lying upright on the ground, with a huge hole caused by the torpedo that sunk it. I promised not to publish the position.
2000
- Kroatia: Diving Cres is a small dive operator on the island of Cres. The friendly staff offers dive trips around the island.
- Corse: The Lavezzi islands are located south of Bonifacio. A short boat ride off Bonifacio (Operators: Sarl Kallisté, Atoll or Baracuda) offer dive sites like Les Grottes (N41° 20.053’ E9° 15.796’) and Merouville (N41° 20.726’ E9° 16.498’). In the huge limestone walls along the coast are many caves and cracks.
- Corse: It's hard to get to Revellata. An unpaved narrow path leads down from the main road, forking into unmarked but dead ends, until it finally reaches the lighthouse. It'S worth the hassle. Beneath the lighthouse, close th teh water there's STARESO, a branch of teh marine biological institute of teh university of Liege, Belgium (N42° 34.992’ E8° 43.485’). The friendly staff answers all questions about marine life in this area. The landscape (above and beneath) is characterized by bizarre formations of igneous rock.